Total Lawn Care :: Lawn Care Tips

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Lawn care tips

Having green grass does not necessarily mean you have a healthy lawn. Green grass can be obtained by simply dispensing a high nitrogen fertilizer, but that doesn't benefit your lawns' overall health.


Summer: Mow lawn to a height of 2½" to 3"

Spring and Fall: Mow lawn to a height of 2" to 2½"

This will help your lawn develop a stronger, deep-rooted system while inhibiting weed seeds from germinating.

ladybug Late morning or evening is the preferred time to mow your lawn. Avoid mid afternoon, the hottest time of day. Alternate your mowing pattern to ensure grass blades grow straight and strong.

Ensure your lawn mower blade is sharp.

A dull blade tears the grass, weakening it and making it more susceptible to disease.

Bag grass clippings.

Bagging grass clippings helps prevent weed seeds from spreading, unless you have minimal weeds in your lawn.


Generally, lawns require approximately 1" to 1½" of water per week.

house with healthy grass, deep watering, sprinkler
Deep watering promotes deep roots.

A deep watering forces grass roots to penetrate deep into the soil in search of water, a much desired reaction. A light watering discourages grass roots from penetrating deep into the soil as the water remains at the surface. Use an empty Tuna can (1" depth) when watering. When can is full, stop watering. During time of drought, more frequent watering is required.

Early morning is the best time to water. Evening is the next best alternate time of day. Avoid watering during the afternoon, the hottest time of day, as you can cause the grass to burn.

Grass around trees will require extra water as the grass is competing with the tree roots

During springtime, avoid working or walking on a wet, soaked lawn. Deep foot impressions and pooling of water in traffic areas will cause injury to lawn development and the possibility of inviting disease to damaged areas. ladybug

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You should aerate your lawn a minimum of every 2 years.

Suggestion: Alternate annually with de-thatching service

Aeration helps reduce the amount of soil/ground compaction, which increases the event of weeds and insects. Aeration allows air (oxygen) and nutrients deeper into the soil, promoting a healthier, deeper root system.

De-thatching / power raking

house with healthy grass, deep watering, sprinkler
Healthy roots and thatch layer.

You should de-thatch your lawn a minimum of every 2 years.

Suggestion: Alternate annually with aerating service.

Every lawn contains a layer of thatch. A healthy thatch layer is approx. 1/2" thick. Thatch is imperative in a healthy lawn since it comprises of living, dead and decomposing plant material. However, too thick of a thatch layer will provide adverse effects and increase the chance of lawn disease.


A general raking in the spring will assist in your lawn coming out of its winter dormancy.

It will help to remove any left over clippings from the last fall mowing and dead patches in your lawn. Be sure to repair the dead patches in early spring when temperatures and soil conditions are optimal.

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It is recommended to over seed your lawn a minimum of every other year.

Annual over seeding is best. Over-seeding ensures continual lawn development and helps to thicken lawns.

Use a seed mixture consisting of a variety of grass types: Kentucky bluegrass, Fine fescues and perennial ryegrass.

After seeding, ensure you keep the lawn moist to ensure the seeds germinate. Avoid pooling/puddling of water. Once the new grass has started to develop (approx 2-3 weeks), maintain a regular, deep watering routine

Top Dressing

The best time to "top dress" your lawn is after aerating.

A good level of top dressing, 1/2" to 1" thick, is desirable and spread evenly on top of your lawn OR save time and money by using specialized compost pellets delivered by a broadcast spreader

Top dressing replenishes nutrients and increases levels of beneficial micro-organisms in your lawns the soil.

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Winter Maintenance

In March, disperse snow piles evenly on the lawn to equalize melting and lawn exposure.

This will reduce the risk of road salt burn accumulated in the shoveled snow. Also, some fungi prefer snow piles.